Le Temps est Venu means "the time has come," and for Stephane Ogier it meant heading south. He built his reputation on the vertiginous slopes of Cote-Rotie, then went looking for old vines in the southern Rhone, landing on Grenache and Syrah from Plan de Dieu and Visan, planted on clay-limestone, with decades of age behind them. The fruit is hand-harvested and sorted with the same fuss he applies to his top bottlings, which is emphatically not how most Cotes du Rhone gets made. What lands in the glass is generous and warm without tipping into jam: ripe cherry, garrigue scrub, a twist of black pepper. This is the everyday Rhone, made by someone with no interest in making an everyday wine.