If Barolo intimidates you, start here. San Lorenzo is the friendliest wine in Fratelli Alessandria's lineup: all the perfume and spice that made the village of Verduno famous, wrapped around structure you can actually enjoy now rather than in a decade. The Alessandria family has been growing Nebbiolo in Verduno since the 1800s, and while Burlotto gets most of the attention, they are the other great reference point in the village, working the same storied hillsides. Their voice is classical and clear — red-fruited, lifted, transparent to the site. This bottling comes off a south-facing slope near the Tanaro river, whose cool air keeps everything fresh, and it rests three years in large oak casks before release. Serious Barolo that doesn't make you wait.