Gilles Robin started his domaine in 1996 by planting Syrah on Les Chassis, the stony, sun-warmed river terrace that is the best land on the southern side of Crozes-Hermitage. Papillon comes from those vines, and it sees no oak at all - aged entirely in tank, which is the entire point. Nothing is allowed to stand between you and the fruit, so this is Northern Rhone Syrah in its most direct form: violets, plum and cracked black pepper with a savory, olive-and-bacon-fat undertow. Reach for it when you want the crackle of Syrah without waiting a decade for the wine to unwind. A slight chill does it no harm at all.