Montepeloso sits in the hills around Suvereto, just inland from the Tuscan coast, where Fabio Chiarelotto, a historian-turned-winemaker, took over in 1998 and built a cult following. "A Quo" is the estate's most accessible wine, a Mediterranean-leaning blend that shifts by vintage but leans on Montepulciano, Cabernet, Sangiovese and a splash of Alicante and Marselan. It's warm, supple and generous, with more depth and structure than its entry-level billing suggests. A coastal Tuscan red that overdelivers. Drink it now or hold a few years.