Amarone took all the attention, and honest Valpolicella got left behind. That's good news for anyone who wants a red they can actually drink with dinner. The Arduini family has been farming the Classico heart of Valpolicella since the 1940s, and Luciano now works about seven hectares of terraced hillside vines outside Verona. Vigneto di Giacomo is the straightforward version of the region's Corvina-based blend: no drying the grapes, no reboot in Amarone lees, just cherry-fruited red made for the table. It's a mid-week wine in the best sense, the kind Veneto families have been drinking with dinner for generations.