Gamay is still a rarity in California, which makes a wine like this — Trail Marker's Bay Tree Lane Vineyard bottling from Sonoma — feel like a small treasure. Drew Huffine and Emily Virgil farm with restraint and ferment with a light hand, letting the grape's natural translucence and lift come through. It drinks like a high-toned cru Beaujolais transplanted to California: pale, perfumed, crunchy with red fruit, and built more for the lunch table than the steakhouse. Tiny production.