Luigi Moio literally wrote the book on wine aroma — he's a professor of enology in Naples with a couple hundred scientific papers to his name — and in 2001 he and his wife Laura went and put all that theory to work on a hill in Mirabella Eclano. Quintodecimo is the result, and it changed what people expected from Campanian reds. Terra d'Eclano is Aglianico from five plots, fermented in steel and aged in French barriques, and it's the bottle that shows what the grape can do when someone this meticulous is in charge. Aglianico is a tannic beast by nature; here it's polished into something dense, dark and genuinely elegant. Decant it, or wait — it has years ahead of it.