Amalfi rosato barely makes it off the Amalfi Coast, which is most of the problem. Marisa Cuomo builds hers from Aglianico and Piedirosso, known locally as Per 'e Palummo, or dove's foot, grown in the Cetara and Raito stretch of the coastline and given only a brief soak on the skins. The color is a vivid cherry pink, and the wine carries far more grip and salinity than the pale Provencal template most rosé follows. This is a food rosé, built for anchovies and long lunches. Get it before the summer people find it.