Elena Fucci reawakened Vulture; Grifalco is part of the wave pushing it further. The Piccin family made their name in Montepulciano before pulling up stakes in 2004 and relocating to this volcanic corner of Basilicata, drawn by a terroir nobody was paying much attention to. Brothers Andrea and Lorenzo now run the estate, and when Andrea visited our shop he put their philosophy plainly: "Things that can make great Barolo and Burgundy can also make great Aglianico." This is the flagship of their range (their entry-level bottling is Gricos), organically farmed on Mount Vulture's slopes and aged in a mix of large casks and barriques. It is the rare Aglianico that manages real power without heaviness, and it makes an unusually persuasive case for one of Italy's great and still-underappreciated grapes.