Richard Luftig spent a quarter century as a sommelier and wine buyer in New York before starting Pied à Terre, and his Sauvignon Blanc is a direct product of that palate: cool-climate Sonoma fruit, native fermentation, neutral barrels used for texture instead of oak flavor. No pyrazine bomb, no tropical fruit punch — just a Sauvignon Blanc with some flesh on it. Luftig has said he'd rather skip a vintage than bottle a bad one, which tells you most of what you need to know about how this operation runs. Californian in origin, decidedly not Californian in attitude.