Santenay is red-wine country in most people's heads, which is exactly why its whites are worth chasing. Clos des Gravieres takes its name from the gravel underfoot, and the Bachey-Legros family, six generations in and now run by brothers Lenaic and Samuel, farm a high proportion of old vines here. Old vines and low yields are the whole story at this domaine, and they are the reason a Santenay can carry the concentration and detail you would expect from more famous villages up the road. This is Chardonnay of cut and precision rather than butter: white flowers, orchard fruit, a chalky mineral spine. Premier cru white Burgundy without the premier cru circus.