Frappato is the grape that ruins people for heavy red wine. Grown in Vittoria's iron-red sand over limestone, it comes out pale, floral and nearly weightless, closer in spirit to Cru Beaujolais or a cool-climate Pinot than to anything most people expect from Sicily. Guglielmo and Marita Manenti farm four organic hectares of traditional bush vines here and make this with no extraction and no oak, which is the entire point: nothing gets in the way of the site. Production is microscopic. Give it twenty minutes in the fridge and you will understand why the Vittoria faithful are so loud about it.