Jean-Michel Stephan is one of the only growers making natural wine across the board in Cote-Rotie, working with zero added sulfur. With his son Romain he's expanded beyond the appellation into a more approachable Vin de France range, and this Gamay is part of that playful, drink-now lineup. Light, fresh and unfussy, it captures the joyful, gluggable side of a producer better known for serious Syrah. Chill it down and pour freely.