This is where Catharina Sadde reaches for the top shelf: a premier cru Puligny-Montrachet from La Garenne, one of the appellation's highest and coolest climats, perched near the woods on thin, stony limestone. That altitude is the whole point, giving her Chardonnay a tension and mineral cut that suit her fresh, low-sulfur, precision-driven hand perfectly. Native-yeast ferment, barrel aging, no makeup, all energy. From a barely-there production by one of Burgundy's most talked-about young names. A taut, ageworthy white that rewards patience but already sings.