In 1395 the Duke of Burgundy banned Gamay from the Cote d'Or, calling it a disloyal plant. Six centuries later it is quietly creeping back, and Catharina Sadde of Les Horees is one of the reasons why. Au Plus Pres is her glou-glou bottling: organically grown Gamay bought from the Maconnais, fermented entirely whole-cluster with about a week on the skins, then six months in barrel. That is the whole recipe. The name translates roughly as 'as close as possible,' which is fair enough, because there is nothing standing between you and the grape here. Pull the cork, give it a chill, and don't overthink it.