There is Gamay growing in Pommard, planted back in the 1940s, and Catharina Sadde farms it. That is the sort of detail that makes Coteaux Bourguignons, Burgundy's humble catch-all appellation, far more interesting than it has any right to be. Mon Poulain blends that Gamay, about 40% of the wine, with Pinot Noir from the Cote de Beaune, the two fermented separately: the Gamay whole-cluster, the Pinot half, both on wild yeast with no sulfur until after malolactic, then a year in used barrels. Sadde is a German-born chef who trained at some of Burgundy's most exacting domaines before launching her own, and she gives this bottle the same attention as her premier crus. The label is modest. Nothing else about it is.