Most village Chablis is a blend of whatever the cellar had that year. Champs du Puits is a single site, and the focus shows. Benjamin Laroche — working outside his family's much larger operation — ferments this mostly in stainless steel with a portion in old barrels, keeping the wine transparent without stripping it bare. What lands in the glass is lemon and key lime pulled tight over chalk, with the crackling acidity that makes Chablis the most refreshing white in Burgundy. Nothing gets in the way, and there's nothing to hide behind.