Fumin is the great red grape of the Valle d'Aosta, and almost nobody outside the valley has heard of it. It turns up in the written record as far back as 1785, making it one of the oldest documented varieties in this corner of the Alps, and the Institut Agricole Regional - the valley's agricultural college, whose Joseph Vaudan winery doubles as a teaching cellar - makes one of the reference bottlings. Think of it as a mountain cousin to Nebbiolo: similarly savory and structured, but with a softer tannic grip. Organically farmed, and with 2018 now carrying some bottle age, it has settled into a darker, spicier register. If you like reds that lean wild and savory rather than sweet and polished, start here.