Rias Baixas sits barely a few miles from the Atlantic, and you can taste it. Rodrigo Mendez farms granite-rooted vines in Val do Salnes, the birthplace of Albarino, where more than five feet of rain a year and relentless sea wind make farming a fight — and where the poor, sandy granite soils have kept old vines alive for over a century. Leirana is his everyday bottling and it is anything but ordinary: native-yeast fermentation, mostly neutral foudre with a bit of stainless, and no malolactic, so the wine keeps its edge. This is Albarino as a saline mineral white rather than a fruit cocktail.