Jean-Marie Rimbert farms organic schist in Berlou, high above Saint-Chinian, and Cousin Oscar is the cuvee he made for fun: 100% Cinsault from old vines (50-plus years), gently macerated, fermented with native yeasts, aged in stainless. The name is a wink to a relative reputed to be irresistible to the local women. The wine itself is irresistible too - light, fragrant, juicy, and best with a slight chill. It's the kind of bottle to drink fast on a warm afternoon, or to convert anyone who thinks Languedoc reds are all heavy and roasted.