Bouzeron is the only appellation in France that belongs entirely to Aligote — a Cote Chalonnaise village that fought to prove the grape could be more than a mixer. Ramonet, a house built on Chassagne-Montrachet Chardonnay, picked up a parcel there in 2011; it runs to less than a hectare, so there is never much of this to go around. The wine starts in steel and then goes to barrel for a long elevage, which is unusual for Aligote and largely the point: it emerges with weight and a nutty, saline seriousness rather than mere snap. If your idea of Aligote is a thin, sour thing you drown in creme de cassis, this will rearrange your thinking. The 2020 has a few years on it and is drinking beautifully right now.