The domaine that owns a sliver of Le Montrachet also makes Aligote, and does not treat it as a side project. These vines went into the ground in 1956 and 1963 — seriously old for a grape most of Burgundy planted only where Chardonnay refused to ripen — and Ramonet gives the wine the same traditional cellar handling as everything else in the house. The result is Aligote with actual flesh on it: still bracing, still capable of a Kir if you insist, but with a texture and depth most examples never find. It is the most accessible way into one of white Burgundy's great addresses, and it does not taste like a compromise.