In the 1960s, Verduno's native Pelaverga had dwindled to a literal handful of vines. That it survived at all is thanks to a few stubborn Barolo families—Castello di Verduno among them—who gave up prime Langhe real estate to keep it going. The reward is one of Piedmont's most charming rarities: a light, peppery red that delivers Nebbiolo-like perfume without the weight or the wait. "Basadone" is local dialect for the poppy flower—and, loosely, "lady-kisser"—a nod to the wine's old reputation as an aphrodisiac. Serve it slightly chilled and don't overthink it.