Sparkling rose has a bad habit of tasting like candy. This one doesn't. Jean-Baptiste Adam has been in Ammerschwihr since 1614 - fifteen generations - and went biodynamic in 2003, early for Alsace and rare for a house this size. The rose is Pinot Noir given just a few hours on the skins, which is why it lands pale rather than pink lemonade, and it's finished dry. Traditional-method bubbles from Alsace remain one of the smartest corners of French sparkling wine, and this is a benchmark. Aperitif first, dinner second; it handles both without complaint.