Here is a small scandal: Roagna grows their Dolcetto in Pajé and Asili — the same Barbaresco vineyards that produce some of the most coveted Nebbiolo in Piedmont. The vines are 45 years old and older, which tracks, because nobody in the Roagna family has ever pulled out a vine for the crime of being old. And it gets the full serious-wine treatment: native yeast, a long submerged-cap maceration, then a year in large old casks. The result does not behave the way Dolcetto is supposed to. It is dark and nearly opaque, with real tannic grip standing behind the black cherry and plum. Still a weeknight wine, still ready tonight — just one grown on very fancy dirt.