Pieter Ferreira has been making bubbles in South Africa for four decades — long enough that they call him Mr. Bubbles, and long enough that he essentially helped build the modern Cap Classique category. Now he does it under his own name, on his own terms. Birdsong is Chardonnay-led with Pinot Noir, from Robertson and Stellenbosch fruit, made in the traditional method and left on the lees for well over three years before disgorgement. Extra Brut, so there's almost no dosage to hide behind. If you've been told that South African sparkling is a value alternative to Champagne, this is the bottle that reframes the argument: it isn't an alternative to anything, it's just very good.