Aligoté teaches us the wisdom of the ancients. If you grew up on the screechy, insipid version destined for mixing into Kirs and nothing more, you may have wondered why anyone bothered planting the grape at all when they could have planted Chardonnay. Here's your answer: from Pierre Morey — the man who made Leflaive's whites for 20 years and converted both his estate and Leflaive's to biodynamics — comes an Aligoté that is perfectly balanced, with delicious fruit and delicate floral notes, showing off Burgundian terroir in a way that's different but clearly complementary to what Chardonnay shows us. With daughter Anne now fully in charge, these wines have only gotten better.