Ask Pascal Doquet about his winemaking and he'll change the subject. What happens in the cellar, he'll tell you, is frankly boring compared to what's going on out in the vines — which is a refreshing thing to hear in a region that loves to talk technique. He farms just under nine hectares in the Côte des Blancs, certified organic since 2010, with parcels in Vertus, Le Mont Aimé and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Champs Libres is his Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs: all Chardonnay, fermented in steel, aged long on the lees, and finished Extra Brut so there's almost no sugar to hide behind. It's chalk and citrus and tension, the kind of Champagne that gets more interesting the longer it sits in the glass. Doquet owns some of the best real estate in Champagne and somehow still flies under the radar. Take advantage.