This is the bottle that made people take Lambrusco seriously. Born in 1993, Concerto was the world's first single-vineyard vintage Lambrusco: 100% Lambrusco Salamino from the organically farmed clay soils of Tenuta La Rampata, with yields held way down. It pours a deep ruby with a startling violet froth on top, and it is bone dry, with actual tannin and acidity holding the fruit together. If your idea of Lambrusco is something sweet and forgettable in a screwcap, this will reset the whole category for you. Chill it, pop it, and put it next to something fatty.