One letter on the label, and behind it sits most of the natural wine movement. N is for non-sulfite: no sulfur at bottling, as opposed to the S bottling, which gets a small dose. Marcel Lapierre took real risks decades ago learning to make Gamay with almost nothing added, and his children Mathieu and Camille have kept faith with the method on their granite parcels in Morgon. The N is traditionally the last of the Lapierre wines to be bottled and shipped each year, given extra time in tank to settle before it crosses an ocean. Nobody does this better, and every year the arrival of the N on the West Coast is a small event around here. It's the purest expression of what Beaujolais can be.