The Luddites smashed the machines; the saboteurs burned the factories. Niels Verburg picked his winery names on purpose. He spent years as a flying winemaker in France, Chile, New Zealand and Australia before coming home to South Africa and setting up on the slopes above Bot River in 1999, and he has never really stopped being a contrarian about handmade winemaking. Saboteur is his Shiraz-led blend, rounded out with Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre and Grenache Noir, from the cool maritime pocket of Walker Bay. The Atlantic keeps it fresh, so it comes out bold without turning into a sledgehammer.