Ribera del Duero is a region of big names, big oak and plush, upholstered Tempranillo. La Loba is none of that. It's the solo project of Ana Carazo, who farms a handful of hundred-year-old vines high up at the rugged, remote Soria end of the appellation — sandy soils, cold nights, and almost nobody else around. She works alone, picks by hand, ferments with native yeasts and ages in neutral barrels, which is to say she does very little except keep the terroir intact. The result is shockingly elegant for the address: fine-boned tannins, lifted aromatics, bright cherry and wild strawberry over a savory, mineral-etched finish. Spain's sommeliers have turned it into a cult bottle, and the 2019, released after a long élevage, is just arriving at its peak.