Here's our shortcut for judging a Burgundy producer: skip the fancy bottle and drink the entry-level one. The Pillot family has been making renowned Chassagne-Montrachet since 1910, and while the whites get all the attention, Chassagne was once better known for its reds - Jean-Marc still takes them seriously. Les Grandes Terres comes from old Pinot Noir vines just below Chassagne, hand-harvested, organically farmed, spontaneously fermented, and raised in neutral oak so that nothing gets in the way. It's light-bodied and honest, with the clarity and lift that make red Burgundy worth the trouble in the first place. Bourgogne Rouge that actually tastes like somewhere.