Hanzell has been chasing Burgundy on Sonoma slopes since 1953, when Ambassador James Zellerbach came home from Europe and decided the Cote d'Or could be answered here. That is a heavy legacy, and the Estate wines carry it. Sebella is the door in: a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir made in the same house style but ready far sooner and asking far less of you. Native yeast fermentation with some whole clusters, then a stint in neutral French oak, which keeps the wine transparent rather than dressed up. Expect the nervy, cool-climate personality of coastal Sonoma, dense with flavor but light on its feet. A serious estate's everyday bottle, which is usually the best kind of bargain in California.