The smart way into white Burgundy is through the back door of a great village. Francois Carillon's family has grown Chardonnay in Puligny-Montrachet for generations — he and his brother split the old family domaine in 2010 — and this Bourgogne Blanc comes from vines just outside the village appellation line. Same hands, same cellar, same limestone; only the label changes. 2021 was a small, cool, hard-won vintage in Burgundy, which suits this wine: it's all cut and freshness, mineral-driven rather than rich. Punches well above its address.