This is the reference-point Cote-Rotie, and it's hiding in plain sight below Guigal's famous single-vineyard bottlings. Brune et Blonde draws Syrah from both of the great slopes that give the appellation its name -- the darker, iron-rich Cote Brune and the lighter, sandier Cote Blonde -- with the traditional splash of Viognier, then gets an extended stay in barrel before release. Where the Chateauneuf is sunlight, this is cool-climate Syrah in its most classic dress: violets, cracked pepper, smoked olive, a sleek and almost silky frame. Great to have on hand, and genuinely hard to beat for what it is.