Passetoutgrains is Burgundy's old workaday red — Pinot Noir and Gamay together in the same vat, historically the wine growers kept for themselves rather than sold. Almost nobody at Ramonet's level bothers with it anymore, which is precisely what makes this bottle fun: one of Chassagne-Montrachet's most storied families, the house Pierre Ramonet built from nothing starting in the 1920s, making the least grand wine in the Burgundian rulebook. It isn't trying to be a Chassagne rouge. It's a lively, unpretentious red with Gamay's crunch and Pinot's perfume, and it does its best work with a slight chill and a table full of food.