Willi Schaefer is, for many, the platonic ideal of Mosel Riesling, a tiny family weingut working ungrafted old vines on the region's steepest slate slopes. The Graacher Domprobst is one of the great Mosel crus, a steep south-facing site whose blue-grey slate gives wines of cut, tension and electric minerality. This Kabinett is feather-light and only gently sweet, the kind of wine that dances between fresh fruit and racy acidity. Demand for Schaefer's wines always outstrips supply, so grab it while you can. Endlessly drinkable now, and built to age for decades.