Klaus-Peter Keller may be the most talented dry-Riesling maker in Germany, the man who single-handedly turned the Rheinhessen from backwater into Europe's most coveted real estate. The secret is limestone -- and Hubacker, the first vineyard the Kellers ever owned, sits on yellow-veined limestone and marl on a south-facing slope they've farmed for ten generations. As a Grosses Gewachs (dry grand cru), this is racy, powerful, and built to age, with the lacy minerality and salinity that limestone lends. Mineral-driven and intense, with piercing acidity and a finish that ripples with tension. One of Rheinhessen's greatest addresses.