Bertrand Gautherot farms a handful of hectares in Buxieres-sur-Arce, at the far southern end of Champagne, where the limestone under the vines is the same Kimmeridgian marl that runs beneath Chablis. He works biodynamically and keeps cows and chickens on the property, because he would rather the vines eat what the farm produces than what a bag delivers. Blanc d'Argile is his Chardonnay, from a parcel where clay sits over that limestone, fermented with native yeasts in barrel and bottled bone-dry. It drinks less like a house blend and more like a taut white Burgundy that happens to carry bubbles. Pour it in a real glass, not a flute, and give it a few minutes to stretch out.