Aleatico is a grape most people know as a sweet wine, if they know it at all. In Pergola, in the hills of the Marche, they've been growing a local clone of it since the 13th century and making it dry, which is exactly what Villa Ligi does here. Fermented in stainless steel and aged just three months in glazed cement, Vernaculum is bright, aromatic and unfussy: floral and fruity in the way that Aleatico can't help being, but firmly dry and refreshing. The name is Latin for native, and that's the point. This is a grape and a place that never went anywhere, and it's worth the detour.