Ampelio Bucci spent decades arguing that Verdicchio could age like a great white Burgundy, and this is the bottle that proved him right. The Riserva comes from the estate's oldest vines, ages a year or more in big Slavonian oak casks that season the wine without flavoring it, and then rests another year in bottle before release. Bucci himself recommends treating it like a red: serve it cool rather than cold, and open it an hour ahead. Do that and it unwinds slowly, gaining nuance the whole way. There are very few Italian whites in its class, and almost none that reward patience like this one.