À Françoi(s)e is Boudignon's special-selection Anjou Chenin, a step above his village bottling and drawn from his best parcels. Boudignon works almost exclusively with Chenin Blanc, and his wines from Savennières and Anjou are among the best in the world. Like all of his wines, this is made in the vineyard. Thibaud has farmed organically since the beginning; he's a vigneron in the truest sense. The result here is denser, deeper, more layered than the village wine — but always carrying his signature freshness, that 98%-rather-than-102% sense of restraint.