Falanghina is rarely seen in California, which is exactly the kind of underdog grape Terah Bajjalieh loves to champion. Her natural wine project is built around heritage and unusual varieties farmed responsibly, with fruit from sources like Lost Slough Vineyard in the Clarksburg AVA. Here she gives the Campanian white a skin-contact treatment, drawing out texture and a savory grip while preserving its citrus-and-stone-fruit core. The result is an orange wine with real lift, neither murky nor heavy, and a great example of where California natural winemaking is heading.