Hannes Storm is the only person making Pinot Noir from all three wards of the Hemel-en-Aarde, the cool, ocean-facing valley near Walker Bay whose name means "Heaven and Earth" and which has become South Africa's most convincing address for the grape. Ignis is Latin for fire, a nod to the igneous rock underneath: decomposed granite scattered with round pebbles, on a north-facing slope in the upper valley. Granite tends to give Pinot lift and a wiry frame rather than weight, and that is exactly what shows up here, with red berries, wild strawberry, spice, and a stony grip on the finish. Storm farms a handful of hectares by hand and makes tiny quantities. If you still file South African Pinot under curiosity, this is the bottle that ends the argument.