Forget the loess-grown, opulent Gruner you know -- this one is built on limestone. The Stadlmann family has farmed Austria's Thermenregion, just south of Vienna, since 1780, working east-facing slopes of mixed limestone and clay. That stony soil gives an elegantly chalky, saline Gruner that's leaner and more mineral than most. It's fermented spontaneously in large neutral casks, bottled unfined and barely filtered, and rarely tops 12.5% alcohol. Crisp green apple, lemon-lime, and a whisper of white pepper make it a versatile, food-friendly everyday white.