Pinot Grigio earned its dull reputation honestly, thanks to an ocean of anonymous bottles that taste like nothing at all. Alto Adige is where the grape gets its reputation back. Up in Italy's Alpine north, St. Michael-Eppan has been working the slopes around the village of Eppan since 1907, a cooperative whose growers farm steep, high-elevation parcels where cold mountain nights keep the fruit taut and the acidity intact. The result is Pinot Grigio with actual snap: citrus, orchard fruit, and a chalky mineral edge where most versions leave a blank space. This is the house white that converts skeptics.