Ramato is the original way Friulians made Pinot Grigio: macerated on the skins long enough to take on a coppery hue, which is exactly what "ramato" means in Italian. Specogna, a third-generation family estate in the Colli Orientali (working since 1963 from Corno di Rosazzo), has been making theirs this way as a matter of tradition rather than fashion. The result is Pinot Grigio with grip, color, and personality. Far more interesting than the watery version you've been served at brunch.