The Selbachs have been growing Riesling in Zeltingen for roughly four centuries, which means Johannes Selbach and his son Sebastian know exactly which rows are worth keeping. This dry bottling draws on vines averaging around sixty years old across the village's best slate slopes — Schlossberg, Himmelreich and the Sonnenuhr — and ages in big old Mosel casks rather than steel. Old vines make less fruit and more concentration; old wood lets the wine breathe without adding any flavor of its own. What you get is a dry Riesling with the depth of a great site and none of the fuss. This is the bottle to hand anyone who says they don't like German wine.