Few California wines inspire louder loyalty -- or more eye-rolling -- than Rombauer Chardonnay. Ignore both camps and take the wine on its own terms: this is unapologetically rich Carneros Chardonnay, and it is very good at being exactly that. Full malolactic fermentation and lees stirring every week or so build the creamy texture, and nine months in a mix of American and French oak rounds off the edges. Carneros fruit, cooled by fog rolling in off San Pablo Bay, keeps enough acidity underneath that the wine never collapses into pure butter. Richie Allen, who joined in 2004 and has been making it since 2008, and the consistency is genuinely impressive. There is no shame in loving it.